{"id":999,"date":"2019-06-18T18:57:05","date_gmt":"2019-06-18T18:57:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.atlantic-oase.com\/blog\/?p=999"},"modified":"2023-05-17T20:32:41","modified_gmt":"2023-05-17T20:32:41","slug":"bog-filtration-questions-answered","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.atlantic-oase.com\/blog\/2019\/06\/18\/bog-filtration-questions-answered\/","title":{"rendered":"Bog Filtration Questions Answered"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Duck Pond Bog Blog<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

We recently received two questions on a previous blog: BOG FILTRATION, THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO BIOLOGICAL FILTERS<\/a>. The questions had similar answers so we are sharing them in a new blog. First question:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Have you had (or heard of) much success with using bog filters in small duck ponds? I like the idea of using both bio and bog (would help with the extra muck) but not sure if ducks would tear the bog filter\u2019s plants up. Ideally I would set one up with 4-5 ducks in mind.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Location<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Your choices will be determined by what grows best in your area. You will want to get an aggressive grower(s) in there to convert all that stuff into easy-to-prune leaves. You may need to cut the plant matter back hard, maybe more than once a year depending on your location. Figure on a complete removal with new plant material after 5 years. That will reinvigorate and refresh the appearance of the bog.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Because the roots of aggressive growers can sometimes penetrate liner, I\u2019d cover the excavation with underlayment, set the liner then cover that with another layer of underlayment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bog Size<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

You will want a bog that\u2019s at least 30% of the square footage of the water\u2019s surface. That may sound excessive, but 30% is what you need for koi, and ducks are messier. Don\u2019t hesitate to go bigger if you can. For easy maintenance, I keep my bogs shallow, but you\u2019ll need some depth to resist the ducks. I\u2019d probably use 8\u201d of \u00be\u201d round gravel, which is the least costly where I live. Make sure water passes through the bed, whatever choice you make.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One last design detail that might help if you can implement it. To start the bog, I\u2019ll set (or bury, if the bog is cut into a natural slope) a line of Eco-blox water matrix blocks 6-12\u201d higher than water level at the head of the bog. The Eco-blox act as a settling chamber. Water entering the blocks from one side dumps all its heavy solids before passing out the top of the blocks through a layer of gravel. The water then works its way through the 8\u201d deep gravel bed where roots remove nutrients every inch of the way back to the pond. A drain on the opposite side of the Eco-blox chamber can be opened to flush out the debris every year or two. See above drawing<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Aviary<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Finally, the perimeter bog is keeping the pond in the Butterfly House crystal clear, even after 1 year with no additional filtration. Bbutterflies are easy. The photos of the pond in the Aviary, with the same system, has had issues with the ducks, geese and swans, that trifecta of vicious veggievores, devouring 80% of the bog plants. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The good news is, they only obliterated 8 of the 10 species planted. The other two, a dwarf variegated Schefflera-looking shrub and the native Purple Wandering Jew, Tradescantia pallida, are doing a pretty good job. See the rock 3\u2019 down in the pale green water? Not bad considering there are 200 birds in there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Consult the \u201cBlack List\u201d of banned plants in your state before you decide on the plantings. I entered \u201cblacklisted aquatic plants official NY\u201d and Google returned the list for my state. Then compare that to a search for \u2018Plants That Ducks Don\u2019t Eat\u2019 for your state. Good Luck with your duck pond!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Second Question<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n

Hello Demi, thank you for your suggestion and answering back so quickly. Yes, Im certainly going to use 45ml epdm rubber liner. ( That was a typo). I think I got the concept. All though my existing pond had a high 3\u2032 waterfall w\/no stream.. Reading your instructions I will incorporate a stream leading into the pond. Would I still install a deep and wide stream bed with 3-5 inches of gravel in the stream or on top of the Eco-blox? (A little confused) My pump is plumbed with a 2\u2033 Sch40 flex pipe. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

So would I install a \u201cT\u201d at the pump with the same 2\u2033 flex pipe but one leading up to the bio-falls filter and the other leading (connecting) to the eco-box? Once the 2\u2033 flex pipe is connected to the inlet of the eco-box does water fill the box and passes through the rock, gravel and aquatic plants and then down into the stream? Does the Waterfall filter come out somewhere else into the stream? I get the drawing and the concept but not sure about the waterfall filter? I would still have spring flo media and filter-mat in the waterfall filter but no filter-mat in the skimmer. Correct? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thought if you can be so kind is to draw another picture with the waterfall and bio-bog. Thanks for giving me such great advise. Can\u2019t wait to get the pond rebuilt. But this time with a better out come. You really made some good points.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Perimeter Bog with Eco-Blox Settling Chamber<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Hi again! This response required a sketch, which I\u2019m bad at, so it took longer to reply than just text would have. To answer your questions in order: If you have the biofilter at the edge of the pond with the water flowing down a 3\u2019 waterfall directly in front of it, keep it that way. Put the bog somewhere else along the perimeter, anywhere lush plantings will be appreciated and you can easily get to for pruning. The reason I included a stream is because I thought you had one. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Perimeter Bog<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

A perimeter bog like the one sketched can be placed anywhere, at any distance from the pond including right next to it, as pictured. It can also sit as high or low as you like, as long as water pumped into it will flow back into the pond. The sketch shows water flowing over the rock, but it could just as well flow around it. The bog works equally well whether you see the water coming back in as a little waterfall, or water seeps back in invisibly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You won\u2019t need the mat in the Skimmer because you will have effectively doubled your filtration and increased your ammonia and nitrate removal capacity. Don\u2019t forget to add a valve to control the water going in to the bog. Don\u2019t worry about a valve on the biofilter side. Because the bog is so much lower, the water will all go towards that lowest path of least resistance. Shutting the valve to the bog to about \u00be closed will direct a quarter of the volume into the bog, and shunt the rest of the water up to the filter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

AWG University<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

For more detailed information about bogs in general, check out Atlantic Water Gardens University, Natural Filtration 301: https:\/\/www.atlanticwatergardens.com\/university\/courses\/natural-filtration-301<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Duck Pond Bog Blog We recently received two questions on a previous blog: BOG FILTRATION, THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO BIOLOGICAL FILTERS. 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